Houston food, restaurants and dining review. Urban living, travel, thoughts and other randomness.

Saturday, July 02, 2005

Da Marco !!!

I wanted to write this review a month ago, but waited until today because a review without photos won't do this place justice.

Da Marco has been in business for five years. Located in a SMALL house strangely located on a sliver of land on Westheimer, this restaurant serves up Italian fare so fine, national magazines have come calling. You must have reservations on the weekends and you must be prepared for the haute attitude of the servers. Given the quality of service and the food, you can forgive the arrogance.

But let's get to the meat of the matter--the food. Marco, the chef and owner makes Italian so alive with flavor and beauty, it dances on the tongue and demands reverence with every bite. Our meal tonight, to celebrate PR and Ooma's anniversary (my in-laws), had good conversations interrupted by the always impeccable food. Here are the highlights.

Artichoke alla GiudeaArtichoke alla Giudea
Artichoke alla Giudea is one of Da Marco's signature appetizer. It's an artichoke heart softened in chicken broth and then fried. You can eat the whole damn thing including the crunchy bits--a rather embarrassing realization given the wasted morsels from our last meal here. The frying caramelized some of the sugars and the lemon butter sauce gives this dish a punch that will prepare you nicely for the meal ahead.

Peppers and anchoviesPeppers and anchovies.
The anchovies glisten with olive oil. The taste reminds me of the Mediterranean. This is how a novice should experience anchovies for the first time. Combine the slightly chewy texture of this fish with the frise and the moment becomes magical.

Raviolo, Ricotta, Egg & TrufflesRaviolo, Ricotta, Egg & Truffles
A classic combination, truffles and egg yolk, Da Marco again keeps the recipe simple and the taste profound. As Rekha said, "when you cut into the egg [the egg is inside the raviolo], the egg yolk runs and emulsifies with the butter and truffle oil." How magical is that?

Sea Bass with Grapefruit & Aceto Tradizionale
Sea Bass with Grapefruit & Aceto Tradizionale
It felt like I had never eaten sea bass before. I can probably never truly enjoy sea bass quite like the way I enjoy it at Da Marco. The filet is a thick 1 to 1.5 inch. The fish flakes into large chunks and then further flakes into crab-like pieces. The sweetness paired with the grapefruit and sauce takes my breath away. When I ate this fish, I could not speak. I devolved into the flavors and wonder what deal with the devil the chef has made to so perfectly brown and cook the fish. I'm not the only one who heaped such praise on this hunk of fish. Shamaa, my sister-in-law, said it was the best fish she has ever eaten.

Our meal ended with a flourish. Rekha had the delightfully light meyer lemon pudding cake. Richard, our very kind server, told us it was the most popular dessert, with one patron eating two orders every time. We understand the need. I had the chocolate genovese, essentially a refined chocolate mousse cake. I especially enjoyed Madagascar vanilla gelato that accompanied the dish.

Da Marco is the best Italian restaurant in Houston. It surprises the taste buds within the confines of traditional cooking combinations. The restaurant is so good, I have to forgive the arrogant staff (other than our truly outstanding waiter, Richard) who must act that way in the knowledge that they serve some of the best food in Houston.

For the best deal, try their business lunch. Three courses $22. It's a steal.

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

"Peppers and anchovies. The anchovies glisten with olive oil. The taste reminds me of the Mediterranean. This is how a novice should experience anchovies for the first time. Combine the slightly chewy texture of this fish with the frise and the moment becomes magical."

Magically put Huan. If only we could round up the novices and even the majority who have never tried anchovies and feed them this, I bet we'd have a lot more people enjoying dining on anchovies!

ChovyChap

January 30, 2008

 

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